Friday, October 18, 2019

Crushing Tourism


Doei Amsterdam
The Patridge Family Bicycle?

Amsterdam Fetish Clothing Shop
The Oldest Gay Biker Bar in Amsterdam
Last year, I wrote about the increase in tourism in Amsterdam.  We used to live on the most notorious and oldest street in Amsterdam, the Warmoesstraat. The rent was low because who would want their children in such an environment? You could buy anything, step in anything, or step over anyone passed out.  It had sex shops, head shops, fetish shops, and the kind of gay bars that kept the faint of heart away.  Today, there is a candy shop where a fetish shop was located, an Irish pub where the oldest gay fetish bar was located, an Argentinian restaurant (one of thousands) where a gay restaurant was located, 2 supermarkets and a Dunkin' Donuts.  Instead of seedy characters, the street is packed with tourists.  The change is not limited to the Warmoesstraat.  The entire city is overrun with tourists and shops catering to them.  When we lived in the city, we had trouble finding a decent burger.  Now, they are on every corner along with 3 coffee shops, a Starbucks, candy shop, and Dunkin' donuts.  Much of the food is trucked in from central bakeries and there are fewer businesses that can keep up with the rent.  The city is being absolutely crushed by tourism but it brings with it a lot of money.  Streets where tourists are lost as now shoulder-to-shoulder—and this is in October.  You talk with locals and friends and they lament the loss of the charm and livability to tourism.  If I could even afford it, I would not want to live in the city center, or Centrum.  It is just too commercial.  For the average oblivious tourist, there are many places to find mediocre food on every corner and shops catering to your every need.  You would have a great time but miss out on a great Dutch experience.  
Talking about the growing pains really does not do the city justice.  The Red Light district is a very small part of the city.  The town is gorgeous.  Walk the canals and side streets to enjoy the architecture and maybe find a quiet place for a quick coffee. Consider a canal ride to see a new perspective. Avoid the pop-up tourist museums, ask shops for food suggestions, check out one of the greatest concert venues in the world, the Concert Gebouw, located behind Museumplein. Tickets are affordable and you can hear a sublime orchestra. Rent a bike and take the free ferry to Nord (North) and get lost.  It is charming, close, and easy to navigate.  Also consider a day trip by the easy to navigate and cheaply accessible train to Leiden.  The takeaway?  Get lost.  Walk along a quiet canal. And try some local cuisine on the outskirts instead of day-old pizza with corn or stale cake.

Chiquitas Sex Paradijs.  Home of the Bouncing Gold Dildo.

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