Bruges—Birthplace of Dr. Evil

Bruges—Birthplace of Dr. Evil

Bruges

If you have seen the final Austin Powers movie, it is revealed that Dr. Evil is from Bruges, Belgium.  Other than an obscure reference to a Flemish city, what is Bruges?  Bruges was a very wealthy trading center that housed possibly the first stock exchange in the world. At its apex, the city was larger and wealthier than contemporary, London.  In addition to facilitating global trade, the greater region was renowned for its textiles.  The best tapestries in the world were commissioned by royalty and the powerful and produced by artisans in the region.  These works required painstaking effort, labor, and skill to fabricate.  The trade was quite lucrative.  I also heard the wealthy at that time believed miasma was blocked by heavy tapestries stopping drafts leading to their increased demand.

post damage

Pre-Damage

Unfortunately, it didn't last.  Over time, the river silted up and ports became inaccessible.  The result was a town trapped in time like a fly in amber as the city's importance declined.  It became a playground for the pre- jet set crowd in the 19 century and then was invaded by chocolate and lace shops.  And more lace shops.  And oh look, another chocolate shop.  My colleagues in Holland said it was like an unsullied Amsterdam.  To me, it feels a little theme-parky and artificial.  We went back because my camera failed to record a single photo from my first visit.  The Van Eyck museum was also closed.  In addition, I had to return to the Basilica.  It was absolutely stunning with the coolest name ever for a church; The Holy Blood. Stu said, Oh don't be so literal, think heavenly blood or sacred blood, but nope, they translate it as The Holy Blood. On our first visit, there was a giant test tube on display containing 2 drops of Christ's blood. I got in line and said a prayer for my parents before sitting in awe and admiring the church.  Of course, you can roll your eyes at the thought of Christ's blood on a piece of cloth but it is also an opportunity for clarity to become present to something in your life, in my case, my deceased parents.  I take them everywhere and they never seem to mind when I invoke their memory, or is it my memory?  It is so confusing.

Holy Blood Stained Glass

Well, this trip was a little different.  In November, the sun ain't so bright that far North.  There was no blood on display (It wasn't a high holy day) and the church was dark.  I asked the desk if there was a coin box to light the altar.  Nope, the fading light was about as good as it was going to get.  I was a little disappointed, but the worst was yet to come.  The glorious altar was covered in scaffolding.  I asked the desk when the restoration would be completed.  It wasn't a restoration.  About six months prior, they came to work and found some of the painting on the ground.  The roof had leaked a damaged the painting.  Due to the dampness, they still were not able to begin the repairs.  I was absolutely sick to my stomach and a little teared up.  I am always present to the glory of God (or if you are an atheist, the ability of man) when I around breathtaking religious art.   The pilgrimage was a little disturbing.

Our next trip was to the previously closed Groeningemuseum.  It was closing in 5 minutes. Doh!  I figured we could at least walk around the streets of a Flemish city as the sun went down.  It turns out, the city isn't well lit in the dark.  It will either be a trip back to Bruges or forego the museum in the future.

Street View in Bruges

After all is said and done, it was still Bruges, or as the locals call it, Brugge.