It's Like Church but with Metal Detectors
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St. Pete's |
Our Airbnb was around the corner from St. Peter's dome. It rises half the height of a football field
and was designed by the woefully understated Michelangelo. Even notice big
things are farther away than they appear?
Around the corner was a 20-minute walk.
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Mic's Pieta |
Our host asked us if we had been to Rome. We said yes and he joked that nothing had
changed. Well, that's mostly true. Saint Peter's Square was a complete zoo at
midday. The area near the Basilica was
filled with seating and a good part of the square was a cattle queue leading to
metal detectors. We figured it would take a few hours to get into the
church. If you had doubts about the
power of the Vatican gift shop, you my friend, are incorrect. Although we were in Rome, maybe later was
on our minds more than pilgrimage and long pants. We figured there had to be a way to see the Church
as well bypass the crowds. According to
the Google, the crowds die down after 5:30 pm until the doors close at 7 pm. We took a short nap and headed to the
Square. Sure enough, the lines were less
than 10 minutes long—I didn't even have to take off my shoes to go through
the metal detector! The inside of
the Church was also quieter. At capacity, St. Peter's can hold 60,000 standing
screaming fans (though they tend to be more reserved). This evening, it was a gentle stroll around
the hanger without bumping into any camera phones. There was still the occasional glamour-selfie
here and there, but it was still possibly to avoid accidentally photobombing
everyone's memories. (As an aside, what possesses people to make
glamour-selfies—especially in a church?)
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Imagine the Heating Bill? |
We did notice one big change in the Basilica for the worse—you
can no longer approach the altar. There
was a rail about 50 feet from the Bernini Altarpiece and baldachin. The Baldachin
is that canopy over the throne or altar, silly! Our audio tour pined on all the details of the
stroll around the columns as we stood and watched from the cruel barrier. Actually, the thing that bothered us most was
that we were unable to see an incredible marble memento mori piece of the grim
reaper grasping an hourglass. It isn't
the subject matter but rather the sublime carving.
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Old Photo of Cool Art |
The end of the audio tour was a stroll to Michelangelo's first
commission, The Pieta, a depiction of Mary cradling the dead body of
Jesus. After an attack in 1972, The
Pieta was placed behind bulletproof glass.
Thanks a lot, Laszlo Toth, The Second Coming with a pick axe, my
Tuchus.
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Inside the Dome |
On the five-minute walk of silence, I (Mark) decided to play Florence
and the Machine's song, Between Two Lungs. The song is about lovers embracing in a long
kiss but it has always felt like a glorious allegory to death. The act of holding onto life with your last
breath before being released from bondage and suffering. I smiled and slowly twirled around the church
as I gazed at the glorious heavens painting several stories in the sky. I'm certain God wants you to celebrate your
visit. I was just following orders.
Near the end of our visit, the ushers were herding the
crowds towards the doors.
It was quiet and
we could see a peaceful altar in the distance.
There is no better time to see Saint Peter's.
And don't forget, the gift shops are open
late for all of your devotional needs…
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The Swiss Guard |
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