Adventures of Mark and Stu: Burano & Tocello, Islands Off Venice, Italy

Burano & Torcello, Islands Off Venice, Italy

Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta, Torcello

We took the boat the Burano and Torcello today. Torcello was the first ‘it’ place around the island. Most likely, the plague wiped all but the bathroom lady and her housemates. She made good money. The island has few inhabitants.

By the way (as a relevant tangent), bathrooms in Venice are far-and-few between and cost a euro fifty. It cost more to pee than to drink the water than made it. Espresso and acqua do not engender confidence on the streets. I expressed my outrage once I was cranky. We first purchased six 1.5 L bottles of frizzante water only to leave most of it in the room. I was too worried about being caught without a bathroom. In the back of my mind, i wanted to pee in a corner, any corner. The problem is there are people anywhere, just anywhere. Rick Steeve’s said there is nowhere to sit in Venice. He wasn’t kidding. There is nowhere to really sit without a fee. I can’t imagine children begging to gelato and bathrooms with little stamina.

Back to the plot. Torcello had an amazing restaurant (or at least so we were told). We found the restaurant was there when we reached Burano, the next island. Torcello had a wonderful old cathedral that aggravated my mold sensitivity. I hung in there as we perused the church with an audio guide. The back of the church had this massive and wild mosaic with all the themes one would expect; the resurrection, descent into hell, Mary as the champion of the people of the world, and those inevitably saved and damned by angels and demons.

I had my doubts about Burano but the island was 5 minutes from Tercello unlike Venice which was another 45 minutes back. The island was overrun and very touristy. It was, however, enjoyable to see. You know all those Sherman William’s paints that were mixed wrong for the colorblind? I know where they went… Actually, I loved the colors. Magenta next to lemon, violet next to lime. The colors were dazzling and the walls still had stucco to affix paint. The sun was starting to get the better of us and we headed back to the boat to Venice. The 45 minute ride where we got seats was delightful. Let the peasants stand I tell you!

Burano Residence

Family friendly fun! Everyone in Venice simply must take a gondola ride. Can you smell the sarcasm? For 160 Euros by day and 200 Euros by night, the ride is a steal. Not many of the gondoliers where singing, wearing the right shirt, or wearing the hat. For 180 Euro, put on your drag and prep your pipes. You will be singing. Tidbit, the water is so shallow that gondolas were the preferred mode of transport with the oars scooting along the bottom of the canals. When a gondolier dies, the license transfers to the family. No NYC taxi medallion mischief. I suspect the same is true for the lucrative bathroom trade.

Stu!

We had a fancy dinner twice in Venice. The less I spend, the more I can see. One was good, one was bad, and both were memorable. The good one had a loud piano but a happening crowd the previous night. Stu had his heart set on this particular restaurant that seemed popular with the locals so we braved the music. The waiter was a character and kept bringing us little plates of things to try with beaming pride. The cynical side of us was thinking, How much is this going to cost? We ordered polenta with oyster mushroom and roasted red peppers. It was lovely. The piano stopped when half of Venice came in for a party. The place went from us to everyone. The bill was under 35 Euros. Restaurant number two could probably count as a tourist trap with ok food and a bill closer to 50. The waiter, however, seemed like a rent boy, chatting us up. We have a cheeky friend in Chile who would have tested the waters. “Just the bill please”, and we went on our way.

It was getting late and we rushed back to our room. The mask shop had closed but there was a woman working inside who let us shop. I got the plague mask that I wanted. The penance is carrying it. All. Over. Europe. for the next five weeks.

We woke up, tidied the place headed to Ravenna. I hear it’s only a half-hour from Canton and Akron but I may be wrong.

Church from Torcello (above). It was impossible to sneak any pics inside these churches. The island of Torcello was the first Venetian island settled as the people fled the Goths. Years later the real estate bubble hit or perhaps it was the plague. Fewer than 25 people now live there. The rest commute from the mainland. It takes 45 minutes to get to Torcello and the perhaps another trip to the island of Venice.